3.12.2011
3.11.2011
Crib Skirt Round Two
Over the past few months I've realized sewing is a lot like bowling, once you understand the guides are there to help you, everything gets a lot easier.
One of my first projects that I made when starting to sew was a crib skirt and recently I decided that I needed to make a new one (we are in the process of redoing The Bubb's room, more on this once it is done...). I've had this fabric, Michael Miller Two By Two in yellow, around for a bit and couldn't decide what I wanted to do with it. I originally was thinking a new car seat cover, but that never happened. I saw it the other day and thought, crib skirt!
I was going to do a box pleat in the middle, as I've wanted to try them out, but when I was mocking it up, it didn't look right and didn't feel right with the stripes. So instead I made the hem on the bottom two inches and double stitched it so that becomes the focal point instead.
When I was ironing the hem, I got to try out this new tool (well new to me). I am not sure what it is called or if I am using it properly but it was in my sewing box and it seemed like it would help me exactly as I needed. And it did!
I used white grosgrain ribbon for the ties. I actually wanted to make ties out of the fabric with the serger but I didn't have enough material left over for that. (but the ties work just fine and probably saved me a days worth of work!)
All finished!
I've also been debating the crib bumpers. I really like the ones that I have but they don't really go anymore. I keep coming back to this fabric by Amy Butler:
But I can't find another fabric to go with it - I'd like dots on one side and another similar but different pattern on the other. I want it to be blue and match (the rest in this collection are all flowers otherwise I would do that). I have also been pondering chevrons. My other thought is that The Bubb has destroyed my other bumper and would probably do the same to this one. By destroy I mean he gets his arm up above it and pushes it down (yes even with tons of ties) and then rolls on top of it, so it sags now unless I iron it. So maybe I'll just leave it off? Thoughts?
One of my first projects that I made when starting to sew was a crib skirt and recently I decided that I needed to make a new one (we are in the process of redoing The Bubb's room, more on this once it is done...). I've had this fabric, Michael Miller Two By Two in yellow, around for a bit and couldn't decide what I wanted to do with it. I originally was thinking a new car seat cover, but that never happened. I saw it the other day and thought, crib skirt!
I was going to do a box pleat in the middle, as I've wanted to try them out, but when I was mocking it up, it didn't look right and didn't feel right with the stripes. So instead I made the hem on the bottom two inches and double stitched it so that becomes the focal point instead.
When I was ironing the hem, I got to try out this new tool (well new to me). I am not sure what it is called or if I am using it properly but it was in my sewing box and it seemed like it would help me exactly as I needed. And it did!
I used white grosgrain ribbon for the ties. I actually wanted to make ties out of the fabric with the serger but I didn't have enough material left over for that. (but the ties work just fine and probably saved me a days worth of work!)
I've also been debating the crib bumpers. I really like the ones that I have but they don't really go anymore. I keep coming back to this fabric by Amy Butler:
But I can't find another fabric to go with it - I'd like dots on one side and another similar but different pattern on the other. I want it to be blue and match (the rest in this collection are all flowers otherwise I would do that). I have also been pondering chevrons. My other thought is that The Bubb has destroyed my other bumper and would probably do the same to this one. By destroy I mean he gets his arm up above it and pushes it down (yes even with tons of ties) and then rolls on top of it, so it sags now unless I iron it. So maybe I'll just leave it off? Thoughts?
3.10.2011
Practice Makes Perfect
When I went to get The Bubb up from his nap this morning, two things were immediately obvious. One he had not been sleeping. And two, he has figured out the crawl position - which means, when I put him down one of these times turn away and then come back, he is just going to be gone.
3.09.2011
MADE Winner
I don't win things, in fact if I have a 50/50 odds I won't get it, just how it is. But it doesn't stop me from trying (although I don't play the lottery). And it isn't just in winning, it carries over to everything, not being in stock, having to go to another store, being stopped at security, can't find your reservation, oh you need to pay more for that, being slightly damaged, you just missed it, etc. So we've just learned that when something needs to get done smoothly to let Evan do it, as he typically has pretty good luck/karma/whatever with things, and it makes our lives a lot easier!
So I am super excited to share that I actually won something!!! Dana from MADE, is doing a Celebrate The Boy month, as boys really get the short stick when it comes to cool craft and sewing ideas, and they have been doing some giveaways. I entered one of them and I won! What did I win you ask, this pretty cool toy log cabin set from House 8810.
Although The Bubb is a little young to play with it, the bigger boy in the house has built it for him and as you can see babyzilla tore it down pretty quick!
So I think it might have to wait till he is bit bigger but that is okay! We have set up on his bookshelf until he is able to move freely and then we'll have to put it away until he doesn't want to eat everything he touches :)
3.07.2011
Tutorial: How to Make a Crib Mattress Sheet (Toddler Bed Sheet)
Making a crib sheet (or toddler bed sheet) turns out to be pretty easy, it is exactly like making a changing pad cover. Only difference is the measuring and finding fabric wide enough.
My crib mattress is 28 x 52 x 5 inches. All mattresses are this size, except maybe the depth (5 inches) might vary slightly. To create a sheet for this mattress size I used one piece of fabric that was 67 x 43 inches.
How did I calculate this?? Well first measure the length, width, and depth of your mattress. Then add 1 inch to your length and width (for corner seam allowance, assuming 1/2 inch) So 28 +1 and 52+1, giving 29 and 53 inches. Next add the mattress depth to these measurements: 29+10 (5+5) and 53+10 (5+5) for a total of 39 inches and 63 inches. You need to add in corner seam allowance this way as well (assuming 1/2 inch again). So 40 and 64. Now you need to add in the elastic casing seam allowance, which is 1 inch if using a serger, if not using a serger add in 1 1/2 or 1.25 (to fold the edge over so it doesn't fray). Hopefully you're not confused, I know I am! You had 40 x 64 plus these seam allowances is 40+1+1 and 64 +1+1 (or if not using a serger 40+1.5+1.5 and 64+1.5+1.5) giving total yardage needed of 42 x 66. I added 1 inch to each measurement to make sure the crib sheet would fold under the mattress and mattress pad when finished and that is how I came to 43 x 67 inches!
Getting the 67 inches is easy, buy 2 yards. But getting the 43 inch width is harder, but you can find it or do what I did. -- My 43 inches was really 42 inches plus the selvedge. Yes usually I always cut this off, but I wanted it to be 43 inches, so I left it on. Luckily on this fabric, the selvedge wasn't very wide, so it gets hidden in the elastic casing.
Now that you have your measurements and your fabric, you only need one other thing, elastic. I used 77 inches of knit 3/8 elastic. I cut 80 inches and then tried it on the mattress before stitching it closed, I would recommend this to make sure it fits on your mattress the way you want it to.
Supply list:
1 Fabric measuring 67 x 43 inches
2 80 inches of 3/8 knit elastic and a safety pin
Step 1 Wash, iron, and cut your fabric to 67 x 43 inches (unless you've figured out you need a different length :) see paragraph above about figuring out measurements)
Step 2 Cut 7" squares from each corner. You can do them one at a time, or fold your fabric in quarters and cut all at once. **If you are using a different size piece of fabric, most likely you will need to cut something other than 7" each. To figure this out: Take the width of your mattress, 28" add 1", so 29" then subtract this from the total width of fabric (in this case 43") 43-29 is 14. Divide this by 2. You get 7". I know this can be confusing. Another way to look at it -- basically you need to create the width of the mattress with two corners on each side, so you need 28 inches, plus 1 inch seam allowance (from the corners) to be left in the middle after you make your cuts. To get the corner width, add the depth of your mattress, 5 inches, plus 1 inch for the elastic casing, plus 1 inch to go under the mattress. So 7 inches. Your width is 29 + 7 + 7 = 43 inches**
Now you should be left with this:
A piece of fabric 43 inches by 67 inches with 4 inverted corners measuring 7 inches by 7 inches.
Step 3 Take one side of the 7 inch corner and match it to the other side of the 7 inch corner, right sides together and pin in place. Do this for the other 3 corners as well.
Step 4 Sew together, 1/2 seam allowance. You can also serge the edges if you like to prevent fraying (or zigzag)
You should now have 4 of these wonderful corners!
Step 5 Iron the seams open.
Step 6 Create your elastic casing. In my case I serged around the entire outside and then folded in down 2/3 of an inch. If you don't have a serger, fold the edge over 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch then fold over again 2/3 inch. I didn't do exactly 2/3 as I just eyed it with my iron as I was going around. **I know I allowed for 1 inch in my original measurements, but I didn't actually do that, I did 2/3 inch instead.
Step 7 Pin a stop and start point. You can pin the whole thing if you'd like, but it is a long way around and well I didn't see the need. I also chose to add my label.
Step 8 Sew down the casing, remembering to leave a hole for your elastic, hence the start stop pins.
Step 9 Cut your 3/8 inch elastic to 80 inches long. I would recommend starting with 80 inches and then trying it on your mattress, and then cut the extra off to the desired tightness. Pin a safety pin to one end and insert it in the hole you left in the casing. Don't forget to pin the other end to something as well!
Step 10 Pull out the elastic from the other side and go try it on your mattress. Then cut to desired length and zigzag stitch the two ends together.
Step 11 Tuck the elastic back inside the casing and sew down the hole.
And you're all done! Go try it on!!
Tips I found that it was better after I washed it, the elastic gets evenly distributed. Making it a little bigger is better than making it too small, at least you can always take it in or tighten the elastic!
You can also find this in tutorials.
My crib mattress is 28 x 52 x 5 inches. All mattresses are this size, except maybe the depth (5 inches) might vary slightly. To create a sheet for this mattress size I used one piece of fabric that was 67 x 43 inches.
How did I calculate this?? Well first measure the length, width, and depth of your mattress. Then add 1 inch to your length and width (for corner seam allowance, assuming 1/2 inch) So 28 +1 and 52+1, giving 29 and 53 inches. Next add the mattress depth to these measurements: 29+10 (5+5) and 53+10 (5+5) for a total of 39 inches and 63 inches. You need to add in corner seam allowance this way as well (assuming 1/2 inch again). So 40 and 64. Now you need to add in the elastic casing seam allowance, which is 1 inch if using a serger, if not using a serger add in 1 1/2 or 1.25 (to fold the edge over so it doesn't fray). Hopefully you're not confused, I know I am! You had 40 x 64 plus these seam allowances is 40+1+1 and 64 +1+1 (or if not using a serger 40+1.5+1.5 and 64+1.5+1.5) giving total yardage needed of 42 x 66. I added 1 inch to each measurement to make sure the crib sheet would fold under the mattress and mattress pad when finished and that is how I came to 43 x 67 inches!
Getting the 67 inches is easy, buy 2 yards. But getting the 43 inch width is harder, but you can find it or do what I did. -- My 43 inches was really 42 inches plus the selvedge. Yes usually I always cut this off, but I wanted it to be 43 inches, so I left it on. Luckily on this fabric, the selvedge wasn't very wide, so it gets hidden in the elastic casing.
Now that you have your measurements and your fabric, you only need one other thing, elastic. I used 77 inches of knit 3/8 elastic. I cut 80 inches and then tried it on the mattress before stitching it closed, I would recommend this to make sure it fits on your mattress the way you want it to.
Supply list:
1 Fabric measuring 67 x 43 inches
2 80 inches of 3/8 knit elastic and a safety pin
Step 1 Wash, iron, and cut your fabric to 67 x 43 inches (unless you've figured out you need a different length :) see paragraph above about figuring out measurements)
Step 2 Cut 7" squares from each corner. You can do them one at a time, or fold your fabric in quarters and cut all at once. **If you are using a different size piece of fabric, most likely you will need to cut something other than 7" each. To figure this out: Take the width of your mattress, 28" add 1", so 29" then subtract this from the total width of fabric (in this case 43") 43-29 is 14. Divide this by 2. You get 7". I know this can be confusing. Another way to look at it -- basically you need to create the width of the mattress with two corners on each side, so you need 28 inches, plus 1 inch seam allowance (from the corners) to be left in the middle after you make your cuts. To get the corner width, add the depth of your mattress, 5 inches, plus 1 inch for the elastic casing, plus 1 inch to go under the mattress. So 7 inches. Your width is 29 + 7 + 7 = 43 inches**
Now you should be left with this:
A piece of fabric 43 inches by 67 inches with 4 inverted corners measuring 7 inches by 7 inches.
Step 3 Take one side of the 7 inch corner and match it to the other side of the 7 inch corner, right sides together and pin in place. Do this for the other 3 corners as well.
Step 4 Sew together, 1/2 seam allowance. You can also serge the edges if you like to prevent fraying (or zigzag)
You should now have 4 of these wonderful corners!
Step 5 Iron the seams open.
Step 6 Create your elastic casing. In my case I serged around the entire outside and then folded in down 2/3 of an inch. If you don't have a serger, fold the edge over 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch then fold over again 2/3 inch. I didn't do exactly 2/3 as I just eyed it with my iron as I was going around. **I know I allowed for 1 inch in my original measurements, but I didn't actually do that, I did 2/3 inch instead.
Step 7 Pin a stop and start point. You can pin the whole thing if you'd like, but it is a long way around and well I didn't see the need. I also chose to add my label.
Step 8 Sew down the casing, remembering to leave a hole for your elastic, hence the start stop pins.
Step 9 Cut your 3/8 inch elastic to 80 inches long. I would recommend starting with 80 inches and then trying it on your mattress, and then cut the extra off to the desired tightness. Pin a safety pin to one end and insert it in the hole you left in the casing. Don't forget to pin the other end to something as well!
Step 10 Pull out the elastic from the other side and go try it on your mattress. Then cut to desired length and zigzag stitch the two ends together.
Step 11 Tuck the elastic back inside the casing and sew down the hole.
And you're all done! Go try it on!!
Tips I found that it was better after I washed it, the elastic gets evenly distributed. Making it a little bigger is better than making it too small, at least you can always take it in or tighten the elastic!
You can also find this in tutorials.
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